In Georgia’s Depressed Heartland, Pining for the Soviet Past

The town of Kazreti, nestled in the picturesque mountains of Georgia near the border with Armenia, once boasted a cinema, a bank, musical fountains, two schools and a kindergarten. Dance ensembles and volleyball teams from across the Soviet Union would come to perform and compete, and central heating and electricity were free.

“It was a true Communist oasis,” said Davit Jakeli, 52, who worked as a carpenter in a state-run vocational school in the town of about 5,500 people, about 50 miles southwest of the Georgian capital, Tbilisi.

But after the Soviet Union’s collapse in the 1990s, he said, everything also came crashing down in Kazreti. No longer supported by the Soviet command economy, the unprofitable local gold and copper mines and an enrichment plant were shut, putting hundreds of people out of work. They reopened years later on a much smaller scale under private ownership.

Now there is just one school in the town and the cinema and bank have closed. The fountains, which once adorned a central square, are long gone. Stray dogs roam potholed roads flanked by decrepit apartments.

“It is a huge injustice what happened here,” said Mr. Jakeli, who now resells scrap metal from the courtyard of his home.